Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Touching Base

It's not been an overly eventful few days, but one of rest and reflection. This was to be my week to do a lot of updates to the curriculum, but it is turning out to be one of a lot of napping. I knew I was tired from the pace I was keeping, but have learned that I was bordering on exhaustion. I'm getting well rested and taking long naps in the afternoon and turning into bed by about 8PM each night.

It has been interesting to watch the student teachers from Indiana University. Some of the are embracing the experience and trying to learn as much about the culture as possible whereas others seem to be miserable. The schools are quite a bit different in many respects. For one thing, they don't have any sort of problem with whipping a child on the bottom with a piece of sugar cane. The classes are more structured and so "out of the box" activities or lessons aren't a strong suit. However, that doesn't mean you can't learn from the experience.

A number of the students managed to get fairly drunk on Friday night and stayed up partying until about 12:30 AM despite the talk that said that having a discrete drink was fine but getting drunk was not. The family is very religious and so they don't want the young kids to be around a lot of alcohol. Additionally, it sets a bad example to the locals when they see a bunch of American volunteers drunk. And, to top it off, it was the night before the funeral of Mama Betty's uncle. All in all, not an appropriate thing to do. The students claimed that they weren't aware of the rules about "quiet time." Common sense would dictate that when the generator and lights go off then it's probably quiet time. That and the orientation manual says its 11PM. Now reading back over this paragraph definitely makes me feel my age.

Next week I'll be spending down near Kisumu doing a class to a group of Luo's. It has meant doing some additional research on the culture as we spend part of a day discussing social/culural practices that affect HIV. The Luo's are the only tribe that don't practice circumsion. As such, their infection rates are the highest in the country. In talking with Reuben, I will still present the facts around the reduction of HIV in circumcised males and the science behind it. They also take a much stronger stance on wife inheritance. Wife inheritance is the practice of a male relative, typically a brother, getting married to the widow of a dead relative. This has a huge effect on HIV rates. Luo's are predominant Christian and quite religious, but have strong "hybrid" beliefs that tie Christianity to their tribal traditions.

Friday, October 26, 2007

Thank God It's Friday

Well the week has come to a close and I am very happy to have the day to rest and get caught up. It has been a little more hectic, and therefore tiring, than usual. I am off for the next week in terms of classes, but will spend some of my time doing the updates to the manual. I have tried some of the new material and it seems to fit fairly well. This entry is starting with the oldest stuff first. And, because the days have kind of run together, I'm not sure of the actual date of each thing.

I know that I've been discussing the crazy rain, but when it hails along the equator you know it's bad. One evening right about sunset, we were looking at this really beautiful cloud that had flashes of lightening within it. The lightening wasn't coming down to the ground, just within the cloud. I should have known it wasn't going to be good. We were finishing up with dinner when the rain started. The roof in the main house is corrugated metal, so it can get a little loud. However, when it sounded like hammers hitting it, we looked out and saw hail coming down. It just build up more and more until, between the rain and the hail, you literally could not hear a person speaking unless you yelled at each other. There are 2 puppies left of a new litter and so we tried to go out to find them. The runt of the litter was near the back door trying to make it over. He was shaking so bad and so I had to hold him to try to calm him and keep him warm. Stallone eventially found the other one and it seemed to have found shelter somewhere. Stallone, who is 27, remembered hail from only one other time in his life. The ceiling in the hut didn't leak, but there was a ton of little pieces of thatch laying all over. Additionally, the wind had blown water under the door so I now know where all the low spots are. The strange thing is that the next morning when picked Mary up in Webuye (15 -20 miles away), she said there was not a drop.

I wasn't prepared for coming home on Tuesday. There were a total of 14 student teachers coming from Indiana University. Also, a former volunteer named Janna was staying over night with her parents and their tour guide and driver. I'll start with Janna first. When I came the last time, Janna had just left the farm. I heard stories about how horrible she was. I figured that they were simply exagerating because it couldn't be that bad. Well, I was wrong, she was actually worse than I could imagine. She never shut up from the moment she walked in the door. She was on day 17 of a 21 day safaris through Tanzania, Uganda, and Kenya. Her mother didn't seem that old, but her father was pretty frail. He was staying in the house and kept getting lost on the way to his room. The drivers had said that Janna actually pushed him out of the way in Uganda and knocked him down. They told her that if she did it again they would leave her by the side of the road. They said it was the worst group of people they had ever been with. She was supposed to stay just one night, but we were graced with her presence for 2 nights.

So, with the student teachers, Janna et al, and the regular volunteers, we had 28 people shoved into the living room. I was truly overwhelmed by both the people and the noise. I've been eating with Reuben in their bedroom because it's more civil. They will be done with the dining room/gather gazebo today and so people will be able to spread out and I think I can handle it then. I'm making a point of visiting with people outside or when they aren't all in there together. I don't want to be antisocial, but it is just too much to deal with. (Sorry mom, I'm ending all these sentences with prepostions and I do know better)

Yesterday was graduation day again. We graduated 14 people. The tests scores were the best ever. 3 people in the 70's, 3 in the 90's, and ther rest in the 80's. My one student, Justus, showed true dedication. First, he was only planning to sit in on the first class. However, he decided to return on the second day. When he showed up on the 3rd day, we gave him a manual so he could stick around. He brought us 10 avocados one day and a huge bunch of bananas (still on the stalk) another day. When he came the fifth day he apologized fof not bringing anything, but said he wasn't feeling well. He came on the exam day and passed with a 92 or 94, I can't remember for sure. He didn't look well at all, and had to leave several times. After class we found out that he'd been throwing up since the day before. We took him to the hospital in Webuye even though he was afraid of impsoing on us. It took most of the afternoon, but the eventually gave him a shot of quinine and proscribed other antimalarial medication. The pharmacy was closed by then and it was too late to get a matatu home. We brought him to Kanduyi which is just outside Bungoma. He has some relatives there where he could spend the night. We also got him some bottle water and glucose drink. The glucose drink is fairly common and used when people are so sick and can't keep stuff down. It's basically a drink to replenish electrolytes. The mobile clinic picked him up this morning and will get him the medicine and a ride back to town.

Sitting in the hospital yesterday was a bit somber. There were a number of HIV/AIDS cases coming and going. Usually it doesn't wear on me, but it began to do so. Sometimes I can't help but think "Will I be there, and if so, when?" It's not a thought I try to go to as a positive attitude is certainly the best. I'll be able to shake it and even writing this is quite carthetic.

Again, my thoughts go out to everyone reading this. I am enjoying my time here and know that I am doing good. Oh, I do have another story. One of the volunteers has "adopted" two brothers who have lost their parents. The one had some extensive burns from a fire when he was younger. I think they are 10 and 6, or about there. The uncle has been trying to care for them but just doesn't have the money. Stephanie has arranged to get them into an orphanage in BUngoma where they will get good care. They normally don't take children above 7 because they need time to raise the money for secondary school. Stephanie will sponsor there school, so it just took her offering two cows to get the children accepted. They will attend school at Epico-Jahns (part of ICODEI) so Mama Betty will be able to look out after them as well. Stephanie asked the uncle if he'd be willing to have them tested for HIV. The uncle said yes and that he wanted to be tested himself. He said that because of John he knew it was important. It turns out that he is Humphreys and was in my first class back on this trip! Progresss may be slow, but it seems to be steady.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Going to Class in the Interior

Sorry for the delay in getting a new post added to the blog. I've been in town some to check email but haven't taken the time to write much else. The first class was tiring and so I am still taking some time to catch up with rest. Trying to do some self care as I have lot's off you checking in to make sure I am doing that.

I started an EMPOWER class on Thursday. It is north of Bungoma in a village called Nakoba. Nakoba is in the interior which means it's way off the beaten path. The first day was full of excitement for Mary and I because we came up over a little rise and hit some mud and sank in up to the front axles. I should have put the car in 4 wheel drive but the roads were dry, just narrow and rutted. It took about 12-15 men to get us puched out... That and 200Ksh ($3.00) They wanted more money because they know msungus have money. Mary argued with them and we got back on the road.

I wish I could fully translate what the roads going into the interior are like. Some of them aren't too bad and are simply dirt lanes that are wide enough for two cars. Others aren't much more than a walking path that a car can squeeze down. Lots of deep ruts, but we got to class.

This class has 12 students. Again, like the last one, they are definitely eager to learn and ask some really good questions. We have 3 more days of class and then the final day for the exam and practice presentations.

I'll try to keep up a little better on the blogging. We got two volunteers in last night. They are both working with HIV/AIDS so they can switch between doing EMPOWER and the General Awareness presentations. That will also give me a little extra time to work on updating the manual.

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Why I Do What I Do

Yesterday was the last day of my first EMPOWER training since coming back to Kenya. It was in the village of Ejinja. We were able to graduate 11 students out of 16 that were in the class. The remaining 4 were unable to complete all of the sessions for a number of reasons. There were a couple of deaths in the family, illness and such. I remember writing about the last day of class being bittersweet when I was here the last time and this current round is no difference. Those attending class put so much effort into both getting to class and then the studying required to learn the material. Although the material is presented in both English and Kiswahili, the manual is still only in English. Hopefully, after this next round of revisions, it can be fully translated.

Graduation Day is always a day for celebration and so I ordered a cake for the occasion. However, the class gave me the better surprise. Sometimes, when we do classes, the women will arrange to have lunch for us after each session. But, with this group that did not happen. It wasn’t out of not wanting to do so, but because even the close people were still a distance from the class location. Additionally, I think that this group was even more financially burdened than the average.

So, it was with great appreciation that Mary and I were greeted with celebratory food that the group had arranged. A case of sodas was brought in for everyone. These cost 17Ksh each or about 25 cents. We also received bananas and hard boiled eggs. The class ate 2 loaves of bread (plain). Some of you don’t know it, but I really do not like hard boiled eggs. It’s a whole food texture thing that just makes them catch in my throat. But, knowing that they had gone out of their way to pool funds for both the sodas and the eggs, I managed the ability to eat two of them. I think I even did it without making any faces. They also sang for us.
One of the students had written something that I have included below. Several of the people mentioned have been involved with mobile clinics that have visited and provided medical treatment. It really epitomizes why I am here and the intrinsic rewards that I received.

A Vote of Thanks

It was once announced by the former president of Kenya HIV and AIDS is “a national disaster.” That time this monster used to kill more than seven hundred people a day, but through government and non-governmental organizations such as Intercommunity Development Involvement (ICODEI) situation has reduced. In that connection I would like to pass sincere thanks to the founder of ICODEI, through them I have met different expert who has discharged knowledge about HIV and AIDS to name a few Laura Allen from USA, Carey from Canada, Janet Okamu from Kenyan [these were people that did a General HIV Awareness several years back and he remembered their names], and this present time I would like to pass my thanks and appreciation to Mr John Motter from USA and Sister Mary Nyumbura from Kenyan and also Rhea from Australia who is also working under ICODEI.

Let God bless you as you continue expand teaching in Western Kenya, all over the country all over the world, thank for the value human life, sure you are doing a promising work.
Even though this is a day of departure, please remember to come back and see the differences.
Pamoja Tuangamize Ukmiwi [this means Together We Fight or Defeat AIDS]
Thanks By Kevin Maina Maloba

Sunday, October 14, 2007

A Big Boy's Bed

Woo Hoo! I got a big boy's bed today. It is a 4'x6', so not really a full size bed, but definitelye bigger than a twin and it's not a bunk bed. They are building a new building that will house up to 16 people. It's mainly for student teachers that come to Bungoma through a somewhat sparate program with the University of Indiana. I offered up my twin bed for that building in exchange for buying a new bed for my hut. It was a total of $150 for both and worth every penny. It is much more comfortable and less claustrophobic. If I slept on the top bunk I ran the risk of a large tumble should I have a seizure at night. And, sleeping on the bottom bunk was really claustrophobic because the beds aren't quite as high as they are in the states. I'm definitely settling in and enjoying the small little luxuries.

We lost 3 volunteers on Saturday. They were all nice, but I really hit it off with two of them and so it was sad to drop them off for the bus. They were both medical students. One was from Tasmania and the other from Chicago. They had arrived on the same day and it was apparently a great love connection. The remaining volunteers are all enjoyable and nice to be around. It's always a little odd since I am probably older than some of their parents. One volunteer has made a couple of "off" remarks around my HIV status, so I will take a wait and see approach. If it continues, I'll have to have a talk. I think that sometimes it's not meant intentionally so it provides a chance for education.

The heavy rains in the afternoon continue to plague us. Just think back to any National Geographic shows you have watched and that will give you and idea of the amount of rain that is dumped on the ground. Upon waking in the morning you can see some puddles, but it is surprising to note that most of it is nowhere to be seen.

Take care everyone and know that I am thinking of all of you.

Friday, October 12, 2007

A Surprise Visit to the Morgue

One of the other volunteers and I had a really interesting time after class on Wednesday. Rhea, a medical student from Tasmania in Australia, went to observe the class with me on Wednesday. Afterwards we headed into Bungoma to do internet, stop at the market and pick up a birthday cake we had ordered for Mama Betty's birthday.

Also, we wanted to stop at the VCT (Voluntary Testing and Counseling) Center, which is housed on the grounds of the Bungoma District Hospital. We needed to get female (Reality) condoms for class on Thursday. When we pulled into the grounds and asked where the VCT was, they pointed to this building towards the back. We walked in that direction and saw two men in an open door. So, we walked in and asked about female condoms. As soon as I asked, I looked through another door and realized that the blanket on the floor was in the shape of a body. Then in the back corner on a little raised slab were two male corpses with just their genitally covered. (This is really a run on paragraph, but tough) The man responded to may request for female condoms by saying, "Yes, we accept female bodies." Then, we asked where to go to get the female condoms, and he said "Yes, I can give you a tour." Eventually, he pointed us to the pharmacy.

We had no luck in getting the female condoms at the hospital pharmacy, but on the way back to the car, Rhea asked if we should take the man up on his offer for the tour. I was game so we headed back into the morgue. The morgue can hold up to 12 bodies in the 3 coolers (4 each). The first door was for patients who died in the hospital. The second door was for private bodies. And the third door was for police forensics. He pulled the second door open to show us the four bodies, 3 men and 1 woman. They don't cover them with a sheet or anything. They all looked surprisingly young. In the meantime, the body in the blanket was being lifted into the back of a pickup truck. Despite, the appearance of formality, the body was being treated quite gingerly and with respect. It's important to note that in this rural area, embalming is not the norm. As I said in my last posting, most people are prepared at home.

The smell of formaldehyde and slight decomposition was one that stuck with us for a while afterwards.

The Start of an EMPOWER Class

I am so far behind on my blogging, but will try to get caught up this morning. I started my first EMPOWER training since returning to Bungoma. It's actually very nice because it is only about 20 minutes from the farm in Kabula. And, I think it is the closest to a main road of any place I have been to while in Kenya. It can't be more than a half mile off the main road. There are 16 participants. One group is from the other side of a town and bicycle about 15 miles to get to class each morning. Another group is made up of women that will ultimately train other women. And then the third small group are men from right around the church. It's surprising that the group that travels the farthest is the group that is always there on time. Kenyan time is always a bit different from what we, as Americans, are used to. It's good for either building my patience or trying my patience.

People are truly keen to learn about HIV and how to prevent it. Once again, everyone in the room knows people who have died of HIV/AIDS and the orphans that are sometimes left behind. The questions I receive can be the same that I get asked in the States or they can be remarkably different. The common one here is how long HIV lives in a corpse. In the interior areas where I teach, the bodies are prepared at home and buried in a coffin or simply wrapped in a blanket. You would think that scientists would have come up with an answer but it is still and indeterminant length of time. We end up discussing the need to treat the body with care because of both HIV and then other germs that are present as a result of natural decomposition.

We have the day off today because it is the last day of Ramadan and one of the participants is Muslim. In this are of Kenya about 95% are Christian and 5% are Muslim. Over on the coast the numbers are simply reversed. It's actually a relief as I have been going fairly strong and need some time to rest and take a long afternoon nap. We'll have class again on Monday and then Tuesday will be the exam, practice teaching and graduation.