Sunday, December 31, 2006

The Fabulous Kitale Club

We are staying at the Kitale Club which is supposed to be the best accomodations in town according to both Lonely Planet and the Footprint Guides. At about $25US, you get about what you would expect. Geri and I haave separate rooms in a little brick cottage and share a bath and a toilet. The water is heated at night by a fire that is built under a drum. We didn't have any hot water last night, so Geri is going to try with the front desk to see if they can build a bigger fire tonight. It is an old English club and is quaint in its own way. My room has both a double and a single, but the single is definitely a better mattress.

On Saturday we went to the Saiwa Swamp National Park. It is home to a rare antelope called the Singtura, or something like that. We didn't spot any but di see some cranes and monkeys. We were both exhausted and after a cold splash bath I fell asleep.

Today, Sunday, we got up early to go to the Mt. Elgon National Park. There are caves that are famous for the elephants that enter at night to get salt. Thank God for 4 wheel drive. The trip up to the gates of the park was about 10 km, but much of it was muddy and rutted. We were going to walk in from there because we were afraid the park roads would be even worse. After about 500 meters, I turned around to go back and get the car. There was no way either one of us would have made it. We found the trail to the main cave, but somehow missed it. We ended up at a second, smaller cave, that has a waterfall across part of the opening. It was pretty, but I was disappointed that we missed the Kitum Cave. That's the way it goes.

We are now in town and stopped to have lunch at the same place as yesterday. It is a funky little hotel and restaurant (and cyber cafe) that has fish and chips. They were so good yesterday and today was no different. I don't know if they were really that good or that it is just a novel change of pace from what we have been eating. Geri has walked down to the store and then we will head back to the hotel.

Happy New Year to everyone!

Purchasing An Embroidery Machine

Today was a microenterprise day for Geri and me. She had gone to visit a couple of groups before deciding which one she wanted to work with. The first one turned out to be her choice. It is a trade school so the work embroidery machine will go farther in making a difference. The director of the school had prepared a good presentation for Geri and so she felt comfortable in her decision. The man, Mike was supposed to be at the house by 9AM, which we figured meant 10-10:30. However, he was there at 9:15. This was somewhat of a feat because he was coming from quite a distance and getting anywhere usually involves a lot of walking, or riding, or matatus, or a combination of all of the preceding.

We drove into town and went to the store to look at what they had. We ended up getting a Singer that does a most of the patterns, but not all. It does enough that the school will be competitive in the market and will be able to sell their work. The machine comes with a table and can operate on both electricity and by a treadle (sp?). Now it's up to me to figure out the basics before we present it to the group on the 9th. It should be interesting to see if I can make it work by foot power.

We spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon in town. We were price water pumps as a farewell present when we leave. We think we can get one for about $150. It would help the family out because it would eliminate the hauling of the buckets from the bottom of the well. Trust me, it is not easy to always be dropping the bucket down the well and then pulling it up the 25-30 feet.

We had planned to go over into Uganda for the weekend, but the place we wanted to stay was booked. They made some other suggestions, but they were full as well. I wasn't even thinking about it being a holiday weekend. We're hoping to go next weekend. Instead, we are heading up to Kitale and the Mt. Elgon National Park. Reuben told us to go ahead and take the Pajero (an old Mitsubishi 4 wheel drive). We kept it a bit of a secret from the college students so that we wouldn't have to take a whole bunch. A bit selfish, but it'll be a nice get away.

Thursday, December 28, 2006

Rain, Rain, Rain

The trip back from Kisumu went fairly well. Before leaving town we called Phil and Maggie to see what the doctor had said. The doctor questioned whether he had malaria in the first place and thought that it was just Traveler's Diarrhea. He was headed back the the doctor and so we haven't received a final diagnosis. They are scheduled to travel back to Kabula today.

Kenyan's love to use speed bumps and they can usually be found near the many markets along the road. It's a very effective tool for slowing people down. The problem is that sometimes they are placed in the middle of nowhere. For instance, as I crested a hill on the way back, I saw a speed bump just ahead. I slammed on the brakes, but we still took it at a pretty good clip. It's no wonder that the cars and trucks are always breaking down.

This is supposed to be the dry season, but they have had quite a bit of rain. We went to bed with rain and woke up with rain. We still set out to do an evaluation of an HIV/AIDS Empowerment program that was held about two years ago. They are trying to see what groups are doing, what is going well/poorly, etc. The program seems to be making a difference in the communities, but people keep relaying the message that sick individuals need food, money, etc. Poverty is such an issue and when a provider has AIDS and can not work the problem is aggravated. I'm not sure how effective our feedback will be, but they will try to do what they can.

Wednesday, December 27, 2006

Cathcing Up on My Blogging

Hello All,
I know it has been a few days since I've left any messages. I didn't go into town on Christams and yesterday was Boxing Day so almost all of the stores were closed.

Christmas was wonderful. We went to the church that is on the school grounds. It is Rueben's old church and is a Charismatic Epsicapol Church. Service was about 2 1/2 hours, but there was a lt of singing and dancing. The bishop came to give the sermon. Fortunately, he did that in both English and Kiswahili. The church is small -- maybe the size of a 3 car garage. We had a big lunch afterwards. In the evening we ate mango crisp that some of the volunteers made in the wood oven. They figured that mangos were the consistency of peaches and so it turned out perfect.

Our problem boma-mate was moved into the house on Saturday night. She didn't move her belongings out until yesterday. Instead, she just came in and out all day long to change clothes and show her presence. We didn't say anything because we did not want to spoil Christmas. We asked her yesterday when she was moving her things and she said she would do it IF she had time. We told her that if she packed it up that we would carry it up to the house, but that she had to do it that morning. She realized that we weren't joking about it and moved it to the house.

Our other boma-mate, Brenda, left for Nairobi. She was really wonderful, but now Geri and I have the place to ourselves. Each of us has our own little room. We went into town and bought some little plastice shelves and an area rug. We will leave it behind, but it makes it a bit home-ier. With our kerosene lamp in the evening, we have it plush.

I have begun driving and that is an experience. For one thing, you drive on the opposite side of the road. I drove six of us out to Weboye Falls on Tuesday. They are some beautiful falls. They are only about 100 feet high, but are pretty powerful.

Today, Wednesday, Geri and I drove the other two "mature" volunteers down to Kisumu. It is about a 2 hour drive on some fairly decent road. Phil had a malaria diagnosis on Friday, took the medicine, but is still not feeling great. We brought him to the Aga Kahn Hospital so that he could have it looked at by a bit more qualified medical staff. Geri and I had lunch and will be heading back once I am down here. Phil and his wife Maggie are going to spend the night and will return to Kabula by matatu. I think that he is pobably just dehydrated because the medicine they gave him caused some bad diarrhea.

So far, neither Geri or I have had any intesinal problems. Thanks to my naturopath and the Florastor that she reccomended. Knock on would that it all continues. I hope that everyone had wonderful holidays.

Sunday, December 24, 2006

Laundry Day

Today was laundry day for both Geri and I. Lessoned learn is that it is better to do it every few days, since I had 10 days worth of clothes. Many of them had been worn multiple days, so that at least helped. Laundry involves hauling 3 buckets of water up from the well -- one for washing and two for rinsing. Everything is done by hand and it took multiple changes of water. After it got pretty bad, we would make the second rinse the laundry bucket and then get clean water for the other two. Fortunately, it is all on the lines and will be dry by the time we get home. Also, I swear by Columbia Sportswear clothes because they are a synthetic that both breaths and drys quickly.

A few of us came into town for a bit of shopping. We are with Momma Betty so we took one of the program's cars rather than a matatu. We bought a couple of presents for the family for Christmas. New table clothes for the dining area and some DVD's for the kids. It's weird because they have a TV and DVD Player that gets pretty good use in the evenings when the generator is on.

Tomorrow I'm going to church with them. Reuben will not be preaching at his church so we will go to his old church which is near the farm. I figure it will be my one chance to experience the singing and fun of church. There are MANY, MANY churches and people tend to go. Most of them are small. I would say like the size of a double garage.

As usual, I need to sign off as people are wrapping up on the computer and we will be heading home soon. Merry Christmas to everyone.

Love, John

The Calm Before the Storm

Saturday was such a relaxing day on the farm. Most everyone travelled down to Kisumu for overnight. Brenda, our nice boma-mate went to the wedding of one of her former students as did the family. Geri and I went into town to buy just a couple of things. The couple of things turned into a four hour shopping day. We bought some nice shirts for ourselves ($7 each). A new floormat for the front door because we track so much dirt/sand into the boma. We also bought a kerosene lamp for the nights. Think propane lantern, but one that you have to manually pump to pressurize. We stopped for lunch at a coffee/teahouse that some of the experienced volunteers recommended. We went for a light meal of curry chicken that turned out to be huge -- and all for $2.50.

We got home and swept out the boma and washed down the floor just in time for an absolutely drenching rainstorm. So much for doing my laundry. It did give me time to make some progress on my journal. The problem is that I write the blog and then don't feel like writing with more detail in my journal.

Things ended up coming to a head with our little friend Kitty. She had taken a matatu down to Kisumu (2 hours on a good day) with Reuben and Mama Betty's 15 year old daughter. She was specifically told to be back before it got dark (6:30-7). It's really important because the matatus quit running around 7. Also, it's not like there are street lights or anything. They ended up making it back around 8:30. Mama Betty was both worried and fit to be tied. Kitty came into the boma and Brenda told her she needed to go talk to Betty, but she wouldn't go up there. I left and I guess Geri said "You really need to go up and talk to them." Kitty was like "No, I need to clean up and do some things here." Geri said, sternly, that she didn't realize how worried everyone was and that she needced to go and apologize. Kitty blamed it all on the daughter, Donna. Geri said "You're the adult and you were told to be back before dark." She simply would not take any responsible. Then when I came back into the boma, Kitty told us that we talked down to her and that she didn't appreciate it. Well, you know me, I lost it. Kitty ended up crying for about 2 hours to Reuben and Mama Betty. What absolutely ridiculous and unneeded drama.

Reuben this morning talked to us and said that they were trying to figure out what to do with Kitty since she has been such a problem for everyone. I think they are going to move her into their house in the extra bed in the girl's room. Reuben has really appreciated us and said he was trying to get things straight. He said that they have had some problem volunteers, but none of them have been quite like her. Anyway, enough of that whole mess.

Friday, December 22, 2006

Graduation Day

Today was graduation day for my first class. There were 16 that completed the class and passed the exam. Thank God everyone passed! Two of them completed the exam but had a lot of blanks. Mary, our translator, translated the questions for them and took the answers orally and so they passed. Even though they can take the exam in Kiswahili, none of them elected to do so. I'm not sure if it is out of embarassment or what.

Geri went along with us today and took pictures of the class and of each person as they received their certificate. She also took so movies of the day. It is so much fun. We had order a cake. The cake is actually pretty good. They bake it in a dutch oven rather than a modern bakery. As we were cutting the cake, they all sang songs for us. It is all very moving.

The class lives in two clusters that are fairly spread apart. They Have decided to split into two groups for their ongoing work. They will be doing general AIDS awareness programs in their respective areas that are geared towards youth groups and church groups. Some of the students walked about 6 miles each day to get to class. Something that I don't think too many young adults in the US would even consider doing.

As has happened every day, they fed us before we left. the woman in charge of the food wants to make sure we eat well. She piled about 4 cups of rice on my plate. It was some kind of meat, but was VERY tough. It is very expensive and so there was not a lot of meat. One of Geri's pieces was so tough that she was afraid it would break her bridge. I took it from her plate and had a heck of a time getting it broken into two pieces so that I could swallow it.

We made it back in about record time. We checked the odometer and it was 90km or 60 miles. It took us 1 1/2 hours. The roads and markets are very crowded because of Christmas. Many people are returning to their villages from Nairobi or even smaller towns such as Bungoma or Eldoret. The matatus are absolutely packed. I got dropped of in town and so am braving the matatu for the trip back to the farm. Normally, it wouldn't be so bad, but it's hard to say how many people they'll get into one. Someone said that they have had 21 people in theirs at one time. In case you have forgotten, a matatu is a minivan. Fortunately they can't go that fast on the road to the farm so it's safe.

Geri and I are going to stay on the farm this weekend rather than travel to an outlying sight. I have to do laundry one day, we'll come into town, and just relas around the farm. Next weekend, we will go somewhere for the New Year.

Love and Merry Christmas to you all!

Thursday, December 21, 2006

Broken Bones and Cows in the Road

Did I get your attention? Fortunately, the broken bones were not mine. On the way to class this morning, we came across an accident between a tractor pulling a trailer and a boda-boda (bicycle taxi). The trailer seemed to have come unhooked from the tractor and it hit a boda-boda driver and his passenger. They seemed to be hurt, but were able to walk and such. A car was there to take them to a clinic nearby.

Then, shortly after arriving at class this morning, my co-leader had to leave to take a young boy to the hospital because his arm had been broken. Going to a hospital is different from going to a clinic here. It takes a fair amount of time. First she had to drive farther down a small road to pick up the boy, and then back the opposite direction to get to the main road to Kitale and the hospital there. She arrived back about 2 1/2 hours later; having simply dropped the boy and his father off. The hospital is only about 20 miles away so that gives you an idea of where our class is.

On the way home, we about hit a bull that had wandered onto the highway. We swerved and missed it, but it still made your heart pump quickly. Too much excitement for one day. We have stopped in town to pick up some supplies and check email. I need to get moving.

Geri and I are still trying to decide what to do this weekend. We may just stay on the farm and travel into town here or down to another town called Mumias. There apparently is a nice waterfall that people go to picnic. FOr one thing, I have to do my laundry and haven't had time to do it in the morning or when we get back in the evening. Sorry if the posts seem disjointed, but I rush to get as muched typed in as quickly as possible before they come up from the store to say they are ready to go. We're taking tilapia home for dinner and I can't have the whole gang waiting on me for dinner.

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

My FIrst Class

Today was the first day of my Empowerment Class. It was actually the second day for the group. The class was near Kitale which is about an hour and a half from where we are staying. There were 16 students altogether. The topics today were the immune system, open communication and a condom demonstration. It seemed to go very well. I was able to share with them that stigma and disclosure is an issue in the United States as well. It's amazing that people travel from the surrounding area to attend the class. The church is down quite a long clay road. Afterwards one of the people next to the church made lunch for us. It was rice and a meat dish. Meat is very expensive for them so it was a sprecial treat indeed.

The trip back was a little bit of a challenge. We had to drive over to where the mobile clinic was being held so that we could give them some extra money because they were afraid they would not have gas to get home. Life in Kenya is quite different in terms of transportation and buying gas and supplies.

When I have more time, I woulod love to be able to write about our one boma-mate. She continues to be a challenge to the patience. Not just for me and Geri, but for most everyone on the farm. It will be interesting to see how it happens. I went to bed a little earlier and mentioned that I had not had my nap in the afternoon. She tried to tell me that naps weren't good and that I should just do 8 hours of sleep a night. When I explained that I did, but still got tired because of the HIV, she asked me to explain. I sad what do you mean. SHe gave some idiotic response. So I just replied that when you have millions of little HIV floating around in your system, you can get tired.

We have to get moving so we can get back to the farm as it is getting late. More to come later.

Tuesday, December 19, 2006

When the Road is Good, It's decent; When it is bad, Holy S#!t

We traveled to Kabula yesterday. The trip is about 500km and took about 8 hours. You have not seen potholes until you see the ones on the road. It is the main road for trucks hauling cargo. There were two overturned semis, probbly about 8 broken down on the road. The grooves in parts of the road were so deep that we actually bottomed out several times. The driver dropped us off in Bungoma and then we had to call a local cab to take us out to Kabula. We will be able to take a bus back to Nairobi because our bags will be much lighter. We bought a lot of school supplies and other items.

We are sharing a boma (hut) with two other woman. Thee one has been here for 2 months and leaves last we. The other one arrived about 15 minutes after us and ... well, lets just say she won't be our ffavorite. She has the whiniest voice and is trying. We settled in fine and had dinner with the whole crew. There is an couple between Geri's age and mine. There are 6 undergrads from Cornell, and a married couple from Washington DC area.

I'm writing from a little internet cafe that has VERY SLOW dial up service. We took a matatu (van) into town this morning. It held about 14 people and 3 chickens. The cost is 30 shillings or 5o cents. We bought some basics to supplement the food they have. Some biscuits, peanut butter, shortbread cookies, papayas, and the necessary toilet paper.

We'll head back to the home base in a bit. I definitely need a shower and will get to try out the campshower I bought. I wish I could upload pictures, but they will have to wait. It will be the adventure of a lifetime I am sure.

Mom, Adolfo, Bill-- Don't worry I am filtering my water, taking my malaria medicine, using sunscreen, mosquito repellent and the mosquito net. So far, no intestinal problems. I will try to call. I forgot to bring my phone into town where the reception is better.

My love to everyone reading this!

Sunday, December 17, 2006

Rhinos, Giraffes and Hardebeasts... Oh My!

We spent the bulk of the day driving through the Nairobi National Park. It's strange because it is so close to the city that you see wild animals in the foreground and the skyscrapers of Nairobi in the background. It is a very small park, but still a decent assortment of animals. Unfortunately, some developments (and the associated building of fences) is disrupting the animals. In the past, they have been able to migrate from this park down into the Asboeli Park and then on into the Serengetti. That is becoming more difficult. We did not see any zebra today. However, we did see a number of Masai Giraffes. These are different from the endangered Rothchild Giraffes that we visited yesterday. We also tracked a black rhino for a bit. They were almost slaughtered into extinction but are making a rebound. We saw hardebeasts, warthogs, water buffalo, eland (antelopes), impalas (antelopes), and ostriches. We are back at the hotel and will be taking it easy for the rest of the day. I might actually go for a swim in the pool. The sight of my pastey white body might scare the other guests away. Are driver is picking us up at 9 in the morning for the drive to Bungoma. It'll be about 8 hours if we are lucky. There was so much rain several weeks ago that some of the road may not be in great shape. We could have taken a bus, but we are going to stop by a big market to buy a bunch of school supplies and other things. Our bags will be emptier on the way back in January and so we'll take the bus then. Hope everyone in Portland survived the wind storm. I know some of you lost power.

Saturday, December 16, 2006

What An Unbelievable Day!


Get ready for a long post for today. It was full of a lot of fun, but also a lot of seriousness. It started when our driver, Peter, arrived at 10 to pick us up from the hotel. I think the most important part of the day was the conversations we had with Peter.

Just in the normal talk of the morning, Peter asked how long we would be in Kenya and what we were going to be doing. Once we told him, he said that we had much in common and it took off from there. Peter is from the Kisumu area which is a bit south from Bungoma. It sits right on Lake Victoria. He is the only boy in the family and has six sisters. Five of the sisters are HIV+. One sister and two brothers-in-law have already died. Another sister is currently very ill. Peter, through some support from a group of people in Montpelier, Vermont has set up an organization that supports microenterprise programs for women, an agricultural program, and a scholarship program for AIDS orphans. He said that Western Kenya is, by far, the worst area for infection. He gave us lots of encouragement throughout the day. He said that stigma is still such a problem but is slowly improving. People are finally talking about it and some are getting tested. It really puts the US statistics into proportion to what Africa is facing.

I should have a better sigue (is that how you spell it) to the fun stuff, but I don't. Our next stop was the Karen Blixen House. It was interesting to see the house and grounds. They have been able to buy some of the original furnishings back, but the rest are props from the Out of Africa film.

We then went to a bead factory that was originally created to support widows. It has been around for quite a while. The beads were beautiful and Geri went to town buying so her friend Celia could create some necklaces. It was an amazing process to watch the women work on them.

We went to the Giraffe Center. It is a place for giraffe orphans. You get to go up on a platform and feed them little pellets. Their tongues are incredibly long and sand papery. If you put a little pellet in your mouth they will give you a kiss to get the pellet. Lord knows what germs I picked up there. Actually, it was probably okay. Apparently their saliva is very antiseptic because they cut their tongues when they are eating leaves from some of the thorned trees.

Next it was shopping and lunch at an African Heritage complex. It is a group of stores that was originally founded by Sir Richard Leakey for the purpose of helping to support local people. I could have spent hours shopping there. I did buy a safari vest that will be good for when I'm in Western Kenya. Geri did her usual round of shopping. She bought a beautiful carved giraffe.

The final, and best, treat was left for last. We had a private visit to the Sheldrick Elephant Trust (http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/). It has been featured on Sixty Minutes. It was spectacular. We got to meet with the handlers and visit with the elephants. They have a total of 12 elephants now. Eight of them are between 9 months and 21 months. The other four are 1 month, 2 months, and two are 3 months. It was so much fun to be able to touch and play with them. I got sprayed with mud but it was so worth it. They were so gentle. Although the littlest one can push you pretty good. She still had one ear that was very sunburned. They will be raised there until they are 2 years old and then are released into one of the National Parks. The handlers are with them 24 hours a day and walk them around in the Nairobi National Park. They are bottle fed every 3 hours. At about 5:30 each night, they are put to sleep in stalls. Each animal has his/her own little mattress and a handler sleeps on a mattress in the stall with them.

Tomorrow we will be going on a small safari in the Nairobi Naitonal Park and then off to Bungoma on Monday morning.

Friday, December 15, 2006

Everyone and Everything Has Arrived

Geri arrived at the hotel this morning. She had problems at Heathrow with her luggage but they did get it switched over to Kenyan Air. After breakfast I called the airport and found out that my luggage did make it into Nairobi. I told them I would be out to pick it up. The people that are taking us on the sightseeing picked me up and off to the airport we went. I got to the airport and was told that my luggage was being delivered to the hotel. Long story short, it arrived, intact, around 11:30.

It was nice to travel to the airport during the day. I still don't have a good grasp of the size of the city, but was able to see some residential areas. I saw my first wildlife - 3 giraffes - in a field near the airport. They were off in the distance and were just travelling along. We took a side trip through the city in order to avoid traffic. Americans are so truly spoiled. I didn't see the the worst part of town, but certainly a pocket of poverty.

The driver of the van is great for giving a general view of HIV/AIDS in Kenya. There are so many billboards for prevention, but the issue is still big. Much of it problems, according to him, revolve around the stigma of simply having HIV. He said it is slowly getting better. The other problem is many of the tribal customs. Poligamy, circumsion ceremonies, etc. This is definitely an issue in the rural areas of Kenya and something that is common in the area I'm going to.

Tomorrow is our first real day of sightseeing. We are going out to the Karen Blixen House, the Sheldrick Elephant Trust (http://www.sheldrickwildlifetrust.org/) and Giraffe Manor. Sunday will be a trip to the Nairobi Wildlife Reserve.

Thursday, December 14, 2006

Luggage! Luggage! Who has my luggage?

Well, I have arrived in Nairobi, but my luggage seems to have gone missing. Fortunately, with the exception of one woman (more on her in a bit), everyone missing luggage was on the same flight from Boston to Zurich that I was. I'm hoping that it will arrive tonight. In the meantime, I'll be doing a little shopping for a shirt and some clean underwear.

The flights were all nice. I must say that it is very impressive to see the size of both the Austrian Alps and the Sahara Desert. It's no wonder that the Swiss have always remained neutral during wars. The Sahara stretched on and on for hours. Even from 37,000 feet you could see long ridges of sand dunes. As we crossed over into more fertile land, you could see the patchwork of fields reminiscent of America's bread basket. It was already dark when we landed in Nairobi, so I don't have much of a feel for the city.

The driver from the Safari company in picking me up this morning to go shopping. I have a feeling we may have to drive back out to the airport. The number printed on the sheet they gave me is not working, so contacting them about my luggage may have to be done in person.

Now, back to the Ugly American Woman that lost her luggage. While boarding in Zurich, this woman was complaining to the flight crew because they wouldn't let her carry on a bag that was to big or heavy. I was embarassed for her she was so obnoxious. Then, as she finally gave up and walked back to her seat, she had to loudly exclaim that the male flight attendant was a "Nazi." That's when I cringed, leaned over to the guy in the seat next to me, and said"We aren't all that bad." So, what happened to her luggage? My guess is it got lost on purpose.

I'm off to breakfast. Keep your fingers crossed for my luggage!

Monday, December 11, 2006

Welcome to my page!

Well, you've found the right spot on the web. Stay tuned for updates from my travels to Kenya. I'll be posting as time and, more importantly, access to the internet permits. I'm headed to Nairobi at 6AM Tuesday morning. After a few days of acclimating to Kenya, it'll be off to Bungoma which is in Western Kenya near the Ugandan border. If you want to see the website for the organization I will be volunteering with, then go to http://www.volunteerkenya.org/index.html.