Wednesday, September 9, 2009

The Circle of Life Illustrated

The flight from Wilson Airport to the Okiombo (O-key-ohm-bow) airstrip is only 35 minutes yet the change in settings can be extraordinary. Wilson is the smaller of Nairobi's two airports and sits quite close to the city center. One fights the morning traffic and congestion to make it to the plane. Okiombo airstrip, on the other hand, sits within the the Masai Mara National Reserve. It's just a small maram, a clay and pebble mixture, strip in the open savanna.

I was met at that airport by Dee, a Maasai moran, who is one of the drivers and guides for my Tipilikwana Mara Camp where I am staying. The camp actually sits just across the Talek River which is one of the reserves official boundaries. However, animals don't respect boundaries, so sighting are possible from the camp. The drive is only about 10-12 miles, but can take 30-40 minutes.

Nature made itself known within minutes of pulling away from the airstrip. We encountered a small herd of Thomson Gazelle. A large warthog rans across the road not more than 50 yards ahead of the Range Rover. However, not too far in the distance we saw a small group of vehicles stopped. This was the tell tale sign that something good was up ahead.

As we drew near, I saw that it was a mother cheetah with her three cubs trailing her. The mother had a baby Thomson gazelle dangling from her mouth much like a mother cat would be carrying a kitten. I assumed that the gazelle had met already its end. She laid down in the grass and the cubs came up rumbling and tumbling around her.

Dee said that they had watched the gazelle be born the day before I arrived. He knew this was the same one as it was in the same spot and the mother could not have moved far with such a young baby. The cheetah cubs were still covered with a downy coat across their backs. They are about two months old and won't lose that fur for another month or two.

As we were about to pull away, the gazelle started running away, if you can actually call it running. The cheetah cubs then chased after it and one of them caught it and brought it back to the mother. Dee explained that the mother had only injured the gazelle and released it on purpose. It's one of the ways that the youngsters are taught to hunt.

We moved on to the camp but not before seeing animals such as topi, wildebeest, and elands. These are all within the antelope like family. We also saw an ostrich, numerous zebras, and hundreds of Thomson gazelles.

The camp proved to be beautiful and welcoming. Certainly a wonderful way to spend a few days. It's actually the next morning after my arrival and I've been out on two game rides. I've got great stories to tell once I find the time to get them typed up. Bear with me as I do this.

9 comments:

Ron Hager said...

John appears to be on a sort of safari and has a lot of us jealous. I hope you are taking lots of photos to post online.

John M said...

I've got literally hundreds of pictures and posted some to my Facebook page yesterday.

Unknown said...

hI
I wanted to visit mara but i was told that it is a waste of money as there are no rains and the river crossing which is the main attraction is difficult to catch. instead i am being suggest to go to voi to catch a glime of the animals. what is your view. i plan to visit from 16th sept to 21 sept

John M said...

Hi Atul,

Yes, there has been a severe drought that has affected most of Kenya. I'm guessing that even the Voi is dry. Your time frame is a little after the peak of the migrations crossing of the Mara, but the Mara is now filled with thousands of zebra and wildebeest. This was my second safari and was, by far, better than the first one. The only animal I did not see was a rhino but I've seen one before. I saw a lot more lions and cheetahs than before. Tons of other animals including all of the antelope/gazelle family. I still think that the Mara is the finest of all the reserves and would still go.

John M said...

Hi Atul, Should have included this in my previous comment. Read the post I put up today. One of the couples that I rode with have been on 6 safaris and they said that this was the best they had seen.

Unknown said...

Thanks John for your quick response. That is good news and So i will go to the Mara. Any suggested tour operator to keep my costs low? I am presently booked just for the flights and will be looking for further travel to mara once i am there. I am a back packer traveller and would not mind to live in very ordinary tents.

John M said...

Stuff can be pricey in the Mara, but you can find bargains. Are you flying into the Mara or just into Kenya? If into the Mara, to which airstrip because that makes a difference. I do know people that have used Primetime Safaris and they are inexpensive and they had a good experience. If you go it alone, getting a good guide is the key as they can make a big difference.

Unknown said...

hi john i will be flying into nairobi and would like to book with somebody to go to mara by road.

John M said...

Try Prime Time safaris. I haven't used them but know other people who have. They are reasonable.

Primetime Safaris
James Kamau
Contrust House, 9th Floor
Moi Avenue
PO Box 56591
Nairobi , Kenya
00100
East Africa
Tel: 254 20 215773
Fax: 254 20 217136
www.primetime.co.ke
E-mail: primesaf@africaonline.co.ke