Modes of Transportation

I thought it might be worthwhile to take the time to write about the different modes of transportation available to the average person in Kenya. Many of my posts reference transportation but people may not understand what I’m discussing. So, here’s your primer.

Walking is probably, by far, the most popular way at get from A to B. There always seems to be a steady stream of people along every road or pathway. From a plane it would look like an army of ants marching to and fro. It’s not uncommon for people to walk several miles to reach their destination.

It’s also important to understand that a human serves as a popular means for transporting goods. The head and back are indispensible. In rural areas, one will see people balancing large packages, jerry cans of water, or burlap bags full of produce on their head. This includes children of a very young age. And, by jerry cans, I’m not referring to small containers, but talking about 5 gallon containers. A common site is a family with jugs appropriate to the age and size of the child gathered around a well filling up there containers. Also, one will see women carrying bundles of firewood strapped to their back. The wood is about the size of a 55 gallon oil drum. The bundle is tied and then often strapped with a “handle” that they support either across the forehead or over the neck and shoulders and resting across the front of the chest.

Boda-boda is the local name for a bicycle taxi. They originated near the borders and were a way for people to carry their belongings across the “no man’s land” between the border posts of the two countries. The bicyclist would call out “boda boda” as a way to get customers. This transportation mode is not as popular in Nairobi. The bicycle is equipped with a padded seat that rest above the rear tire. The pad can be easily removed so that goods can be strapped on instead of a passenger. It’s not uncommon to see a mother and child or several small children sharing a bike.

Boda bodas are a popular way to transport goods. I’ve seen them loaded down with large bags of coal, corn, doors, upholstered chairs, and even coffins. If the load is too heavy or the hill becomes too steep then the pedaler simply gets off and pushes, sometimes with the help of another person.

Boda boda’s are relatively inexpensive. It costs 10ksh or about 13 cents to go from one end of town to the other which would be about a 10-15 minute walk. Going longer distances of about 3 miles would run you about 45 cents.

Moto Bodas are becoming much more popular throughout Kenya, but especially in the rural areas. It’s a much faster way to get from a village in the interior out to a main road where one can catch a matatu (explained next). For the most part, these are 125cc motorcycles that serve the same purpose as a boda boda. You do pay a small premium over the boda boda price but it’s not exorbitant. The only real problem is that not all drivers are equal in terms of skill in handling the bike so it is passenger beware.

Matatus are probably the backbone of transportation options. They are Nissan Minivan with a legal capacity of 14 and an average capacity of 20 plus. In addition to people, a matatu usually has some cargo of items such as produce headed to market or chickens. More than once I’ve had a chicken pecking at my ankles from under the seat. In Nairobi matatus are often pimped out with elaborate paint jobs of rappers and the music is blaring. In the rural areas, the outside is usually white and the music not quite so loud.

There are set prices for trips but if the conductor thinks he can charge you more then he will. Several times I’ve almost come to fisticuffs with a conductor trying to rip me off. Fortunately, most of the ones in Bungoma now know me and tend to be reasonable. I’m sure they think I’m a truly crazy mzungu (foreigner) and that it’s best to let me be.

It’s truly an experience to take a ride in a matatu. As stated earlier, the vans are always overflowing. People tend to sit about halfway on the lap of the person next to them. Children kind of get stacked or handed back over seats like a package. But, it’s always interesting to see how many they can get into the van. My record was 25 although I’m jealous of a friend who was in with 27.

Buses are popular for longer distances. If I am traveling to Nairobi I take the Easy Coach. Other buses are more popular with the locals as they can be a little cheaper (but a lot more crowded). Easy Coach costs me about $13 for the trip and a bus such as the Eldoret Express or Akamba would be closer to $9 or $10. I opt for the assigned seat and not overcrowded.

So, there you have it. How I get around Kenya. I guess I could have mentioned a car, but that's not something I use to often. They do have taxis but it's easier to use the other means of transportation unless I'm in a hurry or need to get a lot of luggage from to the bus station or airport.