Monday, August 10, 2009

Traveling from Nairobi to Bungoma


Well, after four days in Nairobi, it was time to head west to Bungoma. It's only a distance of 200 miles (325km) but takes between 8 and 10 hours by bus. If only they had an Interstate system the way they do in the US. The route is directly along the A104 which is the main highway running from the port city of Mombassa, across Kenya, and then on through Uganda. It is the main transportation route for all cargo going anywhere west. Read that to mean a lot of trucks on a road that, for the most part, is two lanes. One is lucky to reach a sustained speed of 35 miles an hour.

Easy Coach bus company is probably the most comfortable way to travel. There buses are modern 'Greyhound' type buses with assigned seating. The assigned seating comes in very handy as long as you are accustomed to riding them. A veteran traveler knows that you need to be towards the front of the bus so as to avoid being bounced for the duration of the trip. James Bond would want his martini to ride at the back of the bus. Also, it always helps to be on the side opposite the driver so as to avoid being baked in the sun.

The drive is actually a beautiful one. The A104 traverses the Great Rift Valley. The valley runs from the Dead Sea in Jordan south to Mozambique. The drive provides wonderful views down into the valley. Then, in Nakuru, you can look off into the distant and see a mass of pink out on the lake. Were you a bit closer, you would know that the pink was made up of the thousands of flamingos that make it their home. Once you are past Nakuru, you begin the gentle climb back up off the valley floor.

Since arriving in Nairobi, I've been almost inundated with news stories about the water shortage and drought conditions. This became quite apparent as I looked out the window at the withering maize (corn) fields. The long rains of March and April never really materialized. In many places the maize was not more than 2 feet tall and had not developed. Those that will be able to harvest a crop are expecting a yield of 33-50% of normal. I hate to think of the effect this will have on the Kenyan people. Obviously, hunger will be a greater issue. But, secondly, Kenya is very much an agrarian country. Many people rely on their crops to provide an income. With farming losses, many people will not have the money to buy other staples, pay school fees, or purchase medicine. Already, the water shortage has meant the curtailment of power because the hydroelectric dams can not operate at capacity. This is effecting the ability of industry to produce materials.

Lest, I sound all doom and gloom, it was an enjoyable ride. The road, which has been under construction for as long as I've been coming to Kenya is greatly improved. There was one 10 mile stretch that was completely unpaved. Course, that means that the bus travels on a dirt/gravel road at about 10mph. I was able to spot the occasional herd of zebra. No trip would be complete without a little nap put in for good measure.

Bungoma remains unchanged. No sooner was I off the bus, than I ran into my favorite taxi driver Ken. However, my 'taxi' to the apartment was a boda boda. I need to do a separate blog on modes of transportation, but for now, a boda boda is simply a bike with a padded seat behind the pedaler. One person loaded up my 2 bags and the second loaded up me. The ride down through town costs 10 shillings or 13 cents.

It was nice to be back in my quaint abode. If you want to see what $35 a month gets you in Bungoma then you can check out my apartment pictures if you are on Facebook. It may not look like much but it is comfortable and serves its purpose. It's in a secure building with tenants that all look out for me. I was greeted with handshakes and hugs. I should note that handshakes in Kenya are extremely important and are a ritual in and of themselves. It was indeed a warm welcome back.


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